Friday, May 28, 2010

Ask Chef Mary Fridays...Salt



Dear Chef Mary,

I’m curious to know what kind of salt you use, what’s the difference between table, kosher and sea salt, and when do you like to season foods (the beginning, middle or end)?

Beth

Dear Beth,

During culinary school we learned that seasoning is the most important factor of cooking and seasoning is mostly done with salt. For a very brief time in my culinary career, I was clueless about the different types of salt. Through all of our cooking, I quickly learned that kosher salt is and was the best salt to use when cooking; however, the other salts that you mentioned have their place in the kitchen; you just need to know how to use them.

Kosher salt is made up of large grains and, like all salts, is a combination of sodium and chloride. The benefit of the larger crystal is that it coats more evenly than table salt, and when you season meat with it, it creates a delicious outer layer of flavor. It’s also less salty than table salt when the two are equal in quantity. This is due to the size of the crystals. Kosher salt is bigger; therefore it takes fewer grains to fill up the allotted measuring device, which makes it less salty. This salt is also used to make meats “kosher” because it helps extract juices from meats, which is part of the koshering process hence the name kosher salt.

As well as sodium and chloride, table salt also contains iodine and it’s a much smaller granule. It’s best used at the table where guests may add salt to their food if needed. Table salt is so fine that it’s difficult to detect on raw meat as you’re salting it. Typically, people over salt their foods when they use table salt because they can’t see what they’re doing. Both table salt and kosher salt are considered rock salts that are retrieved from mines.

Sea salt is a whispier salt that crunches and melts on your tongue quickly. It’s a great finishing salt for salads, cooked proteins and even sweets. Sea salt is derived from the sea marshes of both the inland waters and lakes. It’s made by containing seawater and allowing it to evaporate over time. What’s left behind is the sea salt and, because it comes from different regions with different types of minerals, it turns the salt into a multitude of colors (pink, grey, black, red, etc.).

As far as cooking and seasoning with salt, I find it’s best to season all the way through the cooking process. When you add salt at different stages, such as the beginning, middle and end, you’ll release different flavors from the item that you’re cooking. However, if you’re concerned with too much sodium in your diet, wait until the end to season your food with salt and do NOT use table salt.

Beth, just remember, you don’t want food to taste like salt. You want to enhance the flavor of the food and not dominate it with a salty flavor. I found that keeping a saltbox filled with kosher salt next to my stove allows me to cook easily in my kitchen. Though I use kosher more consistently, I love all varieties. I hope this was helpful.

Happy Cooking!

Chef Mary

Friday, May 7, 2010

Ask Chef Mary: "Mother's Day Pancakes"


Dear Chef Mary,

My mom loves pancakes, but I’m tired of plain pancakes. Any suggestions?

Kylie

Dear Kylie,

Pancakes are wonderful. I have a few ideas that would be delicious instead of the traditional pancakes. Buckwheat Blueberry, Ricotta Orange, Swedish Pancakes with fresh fruit and Chive pancakes with an egg white scramble; any one of these would put a smile on your mom’s face.

Plain Pancakes

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup AP flour
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1-cup milk
  • 1-tablespoon vegetable oil

Directions:

  1. In a large mixing bowl add all dry ingredients.
  2. In a medium bowl add all liquid ingredients and mix.
  3. Combine both together.
  4. Heat on medium-high a large non-stick sauté pan and lightly dampen a paper towel and coat the pan.
  5. Put liquid into a measuring cup and pour similar size pancakes on the greased sauté pan. Flip and repeat processes 4 and 5until all the pancakes have been made.
Almond Blueberry Pancakes

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup AP flour
  • ½ cup almond meal
  • ½ cup frozen blueberries
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1-cup milk
  • 1-tablespoon vegetable oil

Directions:

  1. In a strainer, rinse the blueberries and then dry with a paper towel. Set them aside.
  2. In a large mixing bowl add all dry ingredients.
  3. In a medium bowl add all liquid ingredients and mix.
  4. Combine both together and add the blueberries.
  5. Heat on medium-high in a large non-stick sauté pan and lightly dampen a paper towel and coat the pan.
  6. Put liquid into a measuring cup and pour similar size pancakes on the greased sauté pan. Flip and repeat processes 4 and 5 until all the pancakes have been made.

Ricotta Orange Pancakes

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup AP flour
  • ½ ricotta cheese
  • ½ of an orange, zested
  • ¼ of a lemon, zested
  • 1-teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1-cup milk
  • 1-tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 1-tablespoon cinnamon

Directions:

  1. In a large mixing bowl add all dry ingredients except the cinnamon.
  2. In a medium bowl add all liquid ingredients and mix.
  3. Combine both together.
  4. Heat on medium-high in a large non-stick sauté pan and lightly dampen a paper towel and coat the pan.
  5. Put liquid into a measuring cup and pour similar size pancakes on the greased sauté pan. Flip and repeat processes 4 and 5 until all the pancakes have been made.
  6. Garnish with the slices of the zested orange and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Chive Pancakes with an egg white scrambled egg

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup AP flour
  • 1 crack of fresh pepper
  • 2 bunches chives
  • 1 teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1-cup milk
  • 1-tablespoon vegetable oil

Directions:

  1. In a large mixing bowl add all dry ingredients.
  2. In a medium bowl add all liquid ingredients and mix.
  3. Combine both together.
  4. Add cracked pepper and chopped chives.
  5. Heat on medium-high in a large non-stick sauté pan and lightly dampen a paper towel and coat the pan.
  6. Put liquid into a measuring cup and pour similar size pancakes on the greased sauté pan. Flip and repeat processes 4 and 5 until all the pancakes have been made.

Remember that it’s also about presentation. So if you’re going to the trouble of making her breakfast, you might consider setting either a table or a breakfast tray with a place mat, napkins, utensils and a flower to top it off. Include a glass of orange juice, water and possibly a cup of coffee.

These recipes could be a little bit difficult for you to do on your own, so you might want to ask your other parent to help out.

Happy Mother’s Day!

Chef Mary

Pancake Tip’s-

  1. There is always a sacrifice pancake in the beginning, so don’t use a lot of batter on the first batch.
  2. Use a nonstick pan, of course.
  3. Dampen a paper towel with canola oil and in-between each batch lightly coat the entire surface of the pan with Pam to prevent the pancakes from tasting of canola oil and eliminate the pancakes from sticking to the pan.
  4. If you make too many pancakes you can place them in a labeled Ziplock bag, and store in the refrigerator for the next day. (The next day, place the pancakes in the toaster oven and heat for 30-45 seconds)
  5. While you’re making the pancakes, keep the already made ones in the microwave with a paper towel over them to keep them warm.
happy cooking!

Repurposing Food

Ashley Stanley, owner of Loving Spoonfuls, is single-handedly trying to repurpose food, but expired and almost expired food to the homeless shelters in Boston, Mass.. After a large family dinner during the holidays, Ashley walked into their kitchen and realized that it was full of uneaten food beyond leftovers.

“I had an Ah-ha moment,” Ashley said. “What happens to all the food that’s leftover and not purchased at grocery stores?”

Thus began her company, Loving Spoonfuls, and her desire to help. Ashley left her corporate job and began research of what could benefit the Boston shelters.

After careful assessment and multiple conversations with the shelters in need, she created an organization that picks up good but expired or almost expired fresh foods like strawberries, Clementine’s and even mushrooms. Ashley then delivers the food to shelters, such as Pine Street Inn, which is an organization that helps those who are trying to get back on their feet.

On Ashley’s first pickup, she wasn’t sure what to expect. She drove her car up to the loading zone and awaited the arrival. She was overwhelmed by the grocery store when they offered around 600 pounds of delicious fresh whole foods that were otherwise going to be thrown away. (By grocery store standards and expiration dates the food was no longer viable for the shelves or for their consumers.) Ashley saw this food in a different light and felt that if it was put to immediate good use it could feed thousands.

Pine Street Inn is merely an example of her hard work put to good use. They feed over 2,100 hot meals a day and, thanks to Ashley and her contributions, they’re able to spend less money on groceries and more in other areas that need attention for their homeless community.

“A positive beginning and maintaining a good relationship with the people of our community starts with a hot, nutritious meal,” said Susan Miskell, manager of Pine Street Inn. “The first step to feeling better is by eating a healthy meal.”

After reading this you might feel very uncomfortable about expired food, but as a chef I know that some expiration dates are merely guidelines. It takes smell, touch and even taste to decide whether something is still edible.

I did a small experiment with milk in my home kitchen. The first week I placed my token carton of milk in my refridegerator. I was very diligent about immediately putting away the milk after each use. I also placed it in the back of the refrigerator to keep it as cold as possible. When the expiration date rolled around, and a few days following, the milk was still good. The next week I had a new carton and instead of being cautious and placing it back in the fridge immediately, I let it sit out for a few extra minutes after each use. It went bad three days early because of my improper handling. You have to be a good judge to decide if food is edible or not despite the expiration date.

Ashley is a pro at repurposing fresh foods and is an example to the rest of the country on how a small change can make a big difference.

“Fresh foods should be a right, not a privilege,” Ashley said. “As a country, it costs us a billion dollars to burn 96 billion pounds of food each year.*”

By simply repurposing foods, we can help make a big impact and eradicate hunger in this country. Everyone should be able to eat and feel good about what they’re eating.

So the next time you clean out your fridge, take a second look to see if what you’re throwing out is really expired.

To help Loving Spoonfuls or Pine Street Inn, please click on the links and go to their Web site to find out more information. Though food is always good to donate, they both really need money donations to keep up all their hard work.

*http://www.greenrightnow.com/kabc/2008/11/26/food-waste-in-america-a-growing-concern/

Happy Cooking!

Chef Mary